Already paid an amount for replacing the compressor of the car and now looking for a cheap way to recharge the AC? If your car is not cooling down properly then maybe the compressor requires replacement. And then, you must recharge the ac after changing the compressor to start blowing the cold air again.
People usually hire a mechanic for this procedure. But you will be happy to know that you can also DIY the project without paying for the mechanic.
Today we will tell you how to recharge car ac after compressor replacement. We will provide you an easy and step by step guide of doing the whole procedure below. It basically takes the moisture and heat from the air, which leaves the cool air in your car.
Your car includes a refrigerant inside the AC which keeps fluid and gas at under pressure inside it. It keeps the gas under low pressure at 70psi when the system is not running. The amount of gas depends on the type of vehicle. The compressor compresses the gas into fluid when you turn on the system.
Then the fluid flow throws the condenser and removes the heat from the air and then come back to its previous gas state. Then it enters in the receiver drier to remove all the moisture. After that, it moves to the passenger compartment and removes the heat. That is how the ac of your car works.
It is important to wear safety kits such as safety gloves, glasses while working on the project. The refrigerant gas sensitive to your skin, and it causes immense pain if it comes in touch to your skin. Also, read the user handbook that comes with the AC recharge kit as well as checks the warnings.
At first, you need to do is turning on the car. Start it and set the AC to high. There is a clutch at the end of the compressor. It should be spinning along with the accessory belt as the AC is set on high.
If the clutch is indeed engaging then most probably, the system has low refrigerant. If the clutch is not correctly engaging, then the AC system is either has an electrical problem or little gas. You can be assured by adding new refrigerant. It this step you will need to check the remaining. For this, turn off the car and locate the pressure port on the low side.The AC lines are one of the most important components in the AC system. They connect all the pieces together and help to carry both gas and liquid refrigerant through the system.
The AC lines can fail over timethough and can leak or fail internally requiring replacement. Many different reasons can be the cause of why the AC system to not blow cold air.
This article only covers replacing the AC hose after it has been diagnosed as the cause of the air not blowing cold or a leak.
There are high and low pressure lines and the replacement procedure for either will be the same. Step 1: Hook up the AC machine. The blue line will go to the low side port while the red line will attach to the high side port.
Do not begin the process yet. Turn on the AC recovery machine and follow its prompts for the procedure for that machine. The gauges for the high and low side should both read at least zero before the process is completed. Step 1: Locate the failing line.
Locate both ends for the line that will be replaced. Make sure it matches the new line you have before any repairs begin. Note if the line is leaking and where it was leaking from if so. In some cases, components must be removed to gain access to the AC line.
If this is the case, now will be the time to remove these parts. Remove any parts needed to be able to work on the AC line. Step 2: Remove the AC line. Put on your eye protection to ensure any refrigerant in the system does not get into your eyes when the line is disconnected. Begin by disconnecting the first end of the AC line to be replaced. There are a variety of different styles of line and each has its own method of removal.
The most common are the threaded block with an o-ring fitting on one end as shown above. In this style, the nut will be loosened and removed.How To Add PAG Oil Into An AC System
The AC line then is able to pull out of the fitting. Repeat the procedure on the other end of the AC line and set the AC line aside.
Step 3: Replace the o-ring. Before the new line is installed, take a look at the old ac line. You should see an o-ring on both ends.You got the bad news: your compressor is hosed. Now what? You actually have 4 choices:. Which is the right choice for you depends on the situation. The case for replacing only the compressor The compressor is the major part in your outside unit called the condensing unit. If your compressor is still under warrantyreplace only the compressor.
When to replace the condensing unit only Assuming the compressor is no longer under warrantywe recommend replacing the outside unit if one or more of the circumstances also applies:. When to replace the condensing unit and indoor coil Your AC or heat pump is a system consisting of the outdoor condensing unit and an indoor coil housed inside of your furnace or air handler.
Replacing just the outdoor unit and not this coil is like only replacing the engine on an old car. This includes:. Even if your air handler or furnace is working fine now, replacing it at the same time you replace your air conditioning system can make sense.
Need help deciding? Contact Pippin Brothers. Pippin Brothers provides heating, air conditioning and plumbing service to Lawton, Oklahoma and the surrounding cities. Skip to main content. July 9, If your house is uncomfortable; wasting energy; has plumbing problems or if you want to avoid breakdowns or verify everything in your home is working as it should, give us call at We've already helped many of your neighbors, and would be honored to help you.
You actually have 4 choices: Replace only the compressor Replace the whole condensing unit outside unit Replace your condensing unit and the indoor evaporator coil Replace your whole cooling and heating system condensing unit, indoor coil and air handler or furnace. Most manufacturers will only warranty a system if you replace all the parts both the inside and outside units. Lower combined installation costs.Frustrated and disappointed, right? This is why you need to vacuum AC system in your car.
Wondering how to go about the process? Read on, and get your facts straight about the DIY process that follows. When you fail to vacuum the dust or moisture from within the AC system, it may deteriorate in terms of performance. Never wait for the problem to creep in, instead maintain the cleaning periodically for the AC to keep running.
To begin with, park your car in a garage or anywhere, where the surface is flat. Do not start the car or the AC system within. Next, you need to wear gloves and a pair of protective glasses. The next thing that would come in handy is a set of a manifold gauge. Before you attach it, you need to make sure where the high and the low services ports lie.
The high service port is larger than the lower counterpart and is positioned amid the orifice tube or the expansion valve and the condenser. This very nozzle is the low side service port that is stuck amid the compressor and the evaporator.
Now the real work to vacuum AC system can start. Once the identification of the ports is done, you need to hook up the manifold gauge. This is the port that lies between the two gauges present on the gauge set. Next, you need to connect the red colored valve to the high pressure port and the blue colored valve to the lower one. It is the yellow valve that signifies the connection to the vacuum pump.
One thing straight, remember to keep the valves on the closed position before connecting to AC system. Get a hold on the right pressure port, and connect it to the gauge by merely lifting the connector ring in an upward direction and then pushing it in a downward direction. Next, you need to turn the red valve in the clockwise direction in order to activate the service valve, located beneath. Repeat the underlying step for the low port as well.
Once all the connections are secure and tight, it becomes essential to tauten small valve which, in turn, activates the internal plunger.
This plunger facilitates to actuate the port valve to refrigerant lines.When your air conditioner stops blowing cold air, it may be time to replace your evaporator coil. While we suggest hiring a professional to replace evaporator coils, here's an idea of what you can expect, if you want to try it yourself. Park any remaining Freon in your air compressor. Turn off the liquid line at the air compressor, and switch the gauge to low before changing your ac evaporator coil.
Cut off compressor. This is a tricky step when changing your HVAC evaporator coil, and it's best to have an extra pair of hands to help out. When the pressure reaches zero, shut the valve off on the low side. Cut off the compressor right away.
If you run the compressor with no incoming gas, you'll burn it out. Cut tubing. Next, cut the lines which lead from the compressor to the air conditioner evaporator coil with a tubing cutter. Don't open the lines back up. Pull a vacuum on the side of the compressor shut off valve that is open to the condenser.
Determine if there are leaks in the system. Turn off the vacuum, and check the levels. If it steady for ten or fifteen minutes, then you're fine. If it kind of moves around, then you will need to run the vacuum one more time.
Close valve gauges. In order for your system to maintain its vacuum, you need to close the valve gauges to the vacuum pump.
Restart the system. Open up the liquid line, and the open the gas line which goes to the compressor, and let them work for about ten minutes. Don't purge the system. Most people think you have to do this, but you don't. There is no way to single out the Freon, so you're good to go!
Remember, check evaporator coil prices prior to taking on this project yourself. Hunker may earn compensation through affiliate links in this story. Things You'll Need freon a friend to help tubing cutter tubing soldering tool.
Evaporator Coil. Step 1. Step 2. Step 3. Step 4. Remove the old evaporator coil. Step 5. Install new evaporator coil. Slide in the new evaporator coil. Try not to over handle it.
Step 6. Braze the lines.The clutch doesn't have a direct connection with the freon. It actually is just attached to the front of the compressor and you will probably have to have a wheel puller to remove it. If it is still cold and is just squeaking you might want to put fan belt dressing on the belt and see what happens. If the clutch is going bad it will rattle but usually not squeek. Reason being the clutch on an air compressor locks in and out against the pully on the compressor and what usually goes bad is the pads that are glued on turn loose and rattle until they just fall apart.
If you hear a squeaking listen closer and make sure it's not from inside the compressor. If you do end up having to change over don't let a garage crook you. The new freon will go in right on top of the R now.
When they first came out with the new coolant the oil they used is what made it gel up in the lines. The new oil can co-exist with the old and work fine. It will have enough coolant to do a normal size system that has been vacuumed empty. It is great if you have access to a vacuum but all it really does is what it says. It vacuums the system so the vacuum inside will help draw the new freon into the void.
If you empty your system out it will still accept your coolant with no problem, just a little slower, without vacuuming the system. The system will still work just fine and last just as long. Too much oil it will not cool good and bog the system down from so much oil slapping around in the compressor. Not enough and the system will overheat and friction will eventually kill the compressor and metal shavings will eventually clog up the filters in the system.
When a compressor goes down, replace all filters inline or you are defeating the purpose. Lastly, if you haven't lost any freon from your system from a bad leak but just need a small charge it is fine to add a little on top of it.
You just don't want to drain off a lot of 12 and then add as the old oil will stay in the system and the ratio between oil and coolant will not be what it should.
Hope this helps. When it does you will loose all the freon. Are you certain that it is the bearing on the clutch or is it the belt.Non-condensable gases in most cases surrounding ambient airare not able to condense inside the air conditioning condenser, unlike refrigerant gases like Ra or Ryf.
Non-condensable gases have a serious impact on system performance, operating conditions, and lifetime of an air conditioning system. The most common non-condensable gases found in automotive systems are air, nitrogen, argon, and maybe carbon dioxide. Every time the air conditioning system is open for any component replacement, installation or repair, surrounding air and moisture will find its way into the system. Air may also be drawn into a system through a low side service valve core leak, leaking ac hose, damaged aluminum line or a fitting.
Another way for non-condensable gases to get into the system is when a system is pressurized using nitrogen to perform a leak test, or during the repair of an ac line using argon when brazing in order to reduce oxidation buildup inside the ac line. This non-condensables gases will remain inside the hvac system causing a variety of issues. The air conditioning system is virtually divided in two sides, one side is a high pressure high temperature and the other is a low pressure low temperature.
On the high pressure side, after the compressor has done its job compressing and raising the temperature and pressure of the refrigerant, this refrigerant in a vapor state is supposed to condense in the condenser. The process of condensation requires the refrigerant to get close to the walls of the condenser, transfer its heat to the surface, which then flows out to the fins and gets into the surrounding ambient air.
A non-condensable gas will remain a vapor in the condenser. This will result in the displacement of space used by the refrigerant for heat transfer and condensation.
How to Replace an Evaporator Coil
The air will reduce the overall heat transfer coefficient of the vapor inside the tube. With a lost in heat transfer capability of the condenser and the inability of the refrigerant to cool down properly, the refrigerant temperature will get higher compared to the air temperature, which means higher discharge pressures.
With the system operating at a higher pressure, extra load will put on the compressor which will decrease overall energy efficiency for the system. Discharge pressure and compressor temperature will go up which can lead to increased lubricant breakdown and shorter compressor lifetime.
With a system working under these conditions, pressures will get beyond a default safe point of some refrigerant control devices in the system, probably shutting down the system to prevent any irreversible damage, like compressor seized up or a hose explosion.
In addition, air contains oxygen, which promotes bad chemistry in the system creating corrosion from inside out of all ac aluminum parts especially evaporators. After a system has been opened for any repair, service or installation even for a short amount of time, the best way to remove NCGs is to pull a deep vacuum in the system.
With a vacuum pump connected to both, low and high ac sides pull a deep vacuum for at least 20 minutes. A vacuum of about microns or If you have done any DIY job in your car replacing all major components and the ac is still performing poorly, could be because of non-condensable gases contaminating your system.
How to Vacuum an AC System
Stop wasting money! Design by Final Web Design. Home About Us Why Us. How does air or other non-condensable gases get into the air conditioning system of a car? What are the effects of air or other non-condensable gas on the system? How long should you evacuate your system?
Evacuation and charging procedure.
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